Torence Raf visits Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler to explore the NEOM CARE’s culinary manifesto

I’ve been closely monitoring the latest happenings in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Particularly its notable achievements in the culinary scene, as evidenced by its recent inclusions in the Middle East & North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants list, solidifying its position as an emerging hotspot for gastronomy. One particular development that has caught my attention is NEOM, an urban region situated in the northwest of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

A living laboratory on the Red Sea, NEOM’s diverse climate features sun-kissed beaches and snow-covered mountains. It aims to redefine the concept of livability, support flourishing businesses, and revolutionise environmental conservation efforts. However, what truly intrigued me was the collaboration with CARE’s initiative, spearheaded by the multi-hyphenate Norbert Niederkofler, and Paolo Ferretti, owner of the communication agency hmc in Bolzano.

Renowned for his innovative and ethical approach to gastronomy, Chef Norbert Niederkofler is celebrated for crafting sustainable culinary masterpieces. His restaurant, Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler in Bruneck, Italy, was honoured with a Green Star award. From my research, I discovered that CARE’s project is dedicated to advancing a moral and sustainable cooking ethos. Collaborating with globally renowned ‘Ethical Chefs’, this initiative ignites positive transformations by showcasing profound reverence for the region, seasonal ingredients, environmental considerations, the efforts of producers and farmers, as well as traditions and cultural heritage in all their facets.

In early 2023, the two powerhouses NEOM and CARE’s united their efforts to cultivate NEOM’s distinctive culinary identity. Their collaboration focuses on responsibly managing the food supply chain, ensuring sustainability from planet to plate. This partnership aims to propel Saudi Arabia into a new era of sustainable culinary practices.

To delve deeper into the culinary vision of NEOM CARE’s, I embarked on a journey to Niederkofler’s renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier Moessmer. Tucked away in the lush Pustertal valley of South Tyrol, Italy, the enchanting venue provides an idyllic setting. Housed within a villa that once operated as one of the world’s oldest fabric producers (Moessmer textile factory), the venue showcases Chef Niederkofler’s “Cook the Mountain” philosophy, which places emphasis on utilising top-quality seasonal produce sourced directly from local farmers and producers.

A standout dish here is the Beetroot gnocchi, a tribute to the legacy and culinary evolution of St. Hubertus (Chef Niederkofler’s 3-star restaurant that recently closed its doors). Featuring a horseradish filling, accompanied by Schüttelbrot (crisp rye flatbread) crumbles, it is topped with a velvety, mildly flavoured daikon cream. Another highlight is the duet of lamb, comprising a lamb steak served with mole sauce and salsify, alongside a sesame seed-crusted lamb lollipop offering a textured mouthfeel. Additionally, the cold and hot smoked trout tartare, garnished with trout roe and pickles and served with a broth crafted from the lesser-known parts of the fish, perfectly aligns with the restaurant’s commitment to minimal waste, offering a glimpse into NEOM’s culinary ethos.

The Manifesto

At the heart of this collaboration is a shared goal: to redefine culinary horizons and advance sustainable development in food, agriculture, and gastronomy. This initiative extends beyond NEOM’s borders, echoing throughout the Kingdom and resonating on a global scale.

Guiding the future of food, the manifesto is framed around six principles: People and Leadership, Facilities, Water and Energy, Food Supply, Circular Economy, and Communications. Serving as the cornerstone for sustainable culinary practices in NEOM, it not only lays the groundwork for transformation but also shapes educational initiatives at the NEOM CARE’s Academy. This Academy unites chefs, entrepreneurs, and industry experts dedicated to advocating for the utilisation of locally sourced ingredients and sustainable techniques that align with ecological harmony.

The Academy encompasses over 150 chefs spanning across more than 25 countries, serving as global ambassadors who endorse a diverse range of initiatives and engagement endeavours. Through activities such as chef camps, masterclasses, and apprenticeships, the manifesto moulds the educational terrain for the upcoming generation of pioneers within the field. This endeavour will foster a new wave of Saudi chefs who will craft menus utilising the freshest regional ingredients.

The Award

In harmony with the manifesto, the esteemed NEOM CARE’s Award serves as a symbol of acknowledgement and admiration for trailblazers in the food industry who are dedicated to fostering innovation and sustainability. This global accolade honours individuals driving meaningful, positive change in agriculture, food production, and gastronomy.

The Award Council is led jointly by Chef Norbert Niederkofler and Dr. Juan Carlos Motamayor, the Executive Director of NEOM Food Sector, who brings extensive expertise in sustainable business practices, boasting over two decades of global experience. Together, they will define the Award categories, establish criteria, and determine the selection methods.

The esteemed members of the Award Council encompass a diverse array of influential figures: Dominique Crenn, a pioneering chef renowned for her environmentally conscious fine dining approach; Professor Sacha Menz from ETH Zurich, an architect and professor specialising in sustainable building technologies – who provides a structural perspective – Mariasole Bianco, a marine scientist and advocate for ocean conservation, offering invaluable insights on sustainability; Professor Rod Wing from the Center for Desert Agriculture at King Abdullah University of Science and Technology, bringing expertise in desert agriculture; award-winning culinary historian Maricel Presilla, known for her extensive knowledge of culinary history; and Chris Newman, the executive director of NEOM Hotel Development, contributing expertise in hotel development.

Among the luminaries, there is one individual I’d like to catch up with again, possibly at NEOM in the future: Bader Alsheikh (pictured above), a chef from Saudi Arabia whose passion for cooking ignited at the age of five. The winner of MasterChef Arabia in 2015, Bader’s journey harmonises seamlessly with the vision of NEOM CARE’s. He is currently undergoing training at Atelier Moessmer and I can’t wait to experience the mastery and innovation he will bring forth from his training.

As a member of the NEOM x CARE’s Academy, Bader actively contributes to the education of a new generation of chefs in Saudi Arabia, inspiring them to approach food with creativity. His presence epitomises the diversity and richness of Saudi Arabian talent, infusing a distinctive flavour into the collaborative endeavours of NEOM CARE’s.

A Culinary Revolution

As the curtains closed on the unveiling of the manifesto at Atelier Moessmer, a new chapter unfolded in Saudi Arabia’s gastronomic narrative. Through the Manifesto and Award, I discovered NEOM CARE’s unwavering commitment to fostering innovation, sustainability, and the development of talent.

The essence of this collaboration underscores a dedication to cultivating a wholesome, sustainable, and enjoyable culinary culture. With NEOM leading the charge for a new lifestyle along the Red Sea and CARE’s uniting trailblazers, Saudi Arabia’s culinary landscape is undergoing a significant transformation, marked by innovation and a celebration of local flavours.
As NEOM CARE’s paves the way towards a culinary renaissance, I eagerly anticipate the transformation. While the journey is in its nascent stages, the destination holds the promise of being truly remarkable.