Following its launch in the UAE earlier this year, BBC Good Food Middle East visited Four Seasons Dubai’s Scalani, to sample a collection of Italian food renowned for being simple, but spectacular.

What’s the concept?

Scalini is an export from London’s posh Mayfair district, where it has been steadily making a name for itself the past three decades. It has become something of a go-to in the British capital for great Italian food done simply and properly, and the Dubai version – now open at the Four Seasons on Jumeirah Beach – aims to replicate that winning philosophy over here.

What are the food highlights?

The food at this self-described ‘quintessential fine-dining Italian’ isn’t nearly as pompous as you might think after a quick customary glance at the menu. Yes, everything’s in Italian. Yes, it can be a tad confusing working out what ‘Tagliolini Verdi al Granchio’ actually means (pasta with crab meat and a white sauce) but don’t let this put you off. Every dish is rather quite simple in practice – if not by name – and most are spectacular. Standouts include the branzino grilled with muscles and clams, as well as the lobster spaghetti in a rich tomato sauce. Our recommendation would be to come hungry, and eat in ‘true’ Italian style; have a starter, a pasta course, then a main course followed by desert.

How was the service?

If the menu does get the better of you, the staff are always on hand to lead you down the right culinary path. They will push the specials quite hard – as is their prerogative from the kitchen – but otherwise service airs towards fine-dining.

What’s the atmosphere like?

Remarkably, due to its semi-underground position (indeed, diners must take a lift down to the restaurant) in some sort of restaurant cavern, Scalini boasts a remarkable outdoor terrace that – even during the heat of the summer – somehow stays breezy and cool. Faux lemon trees and its bright, white décor only add to this chic restaurant’s many charms.

For more information, contact +9714 349 0068 or visit the website. Scalani is open daily from 12pm until 1am. If you enjoyed this story, be sure to check out what we thought of other Dubai restaurants in our review section.