What’s the concept?

Brought to Dubai by famed British brothers, Chris and Jeff Galvin, Galvin Dubai opened doors in October at the fully licensed area of City Walk called The Square. The elegant multi-level restaurant, bar and lounge offers indoor and outdoor seating, which boasts a fantastic social climate that is sophisticated and stylish, yet relaxed and casual – it’s easy to feel at ease here, with warm, welcoming interiors and hospitality. Inside, I’m reminded of a high-end traditional British restaurant that marries styles old and new – think dark wood, emerald green and copper tones, with contemporary touches such as the beautifully stocked Crustacea Bar (Cumbrae oysters, Sturia Oscietra caviar, crab, clams and more live here) and views into the kitchen over the pass.

What are the food highlights?

Led by executive chef Luigi Vespero, who worked alongside the Galvin’s in London, the cuisine at Galvin Dubai is noted as Mediterranean-basin, featuring a seasonal-led menu using ingredients from the west coast of Italy to Barcelona and the southern bay of France – all used to create ‘flavours of the sun’, as Chris Galvin describes. Expect classic cooking inspired by modern Mediterranean dishes, using cooking methods such as wood fired ovens and charcoal grills, and a la plancha for lightness and flavour. Much to my delight, we’re told that the menu here is not designed to share – and trust me, you’ll be pleased to as the dishes are far too good for sharing! Menu highlights include escabeche of yellowfin tuna or lasagne of Devon crab served with rich, creamy bisque and lobster oil to start. For mains, the beef tenderloin with caramelised shallots and wild mushrooms is beautifully paired with a light, crumbly bone marrow tart, providing stunning depth of flavour with the meat. My dining partner enjoyed the roast pave of sea bass, which was an equal success with perfectly crisped skin and tender meat, served with cauliflower purée, light curry, raisins and pine nut dressing. If you’re a dessert lover, we’d recommend the Prune & Bas Armagnac crème brûlée, which had great consistency, or the baba au rhum and Moelleux raisins (but be warned, there’s strength with this one!).

How was the service?

Considering that Galvin Dubai has only been open a couple of months, the team here are well-trained, highly professional and up-to-speed on the outlet’s F&B offering.

The bottom line:

Galvin Dubai uses great ingredients that are handled with respect, and offered with fantastic value for money. A great place to share an evening with your loved one or a small group of friends over dinner downstairs, followed by drinks at the upstairs bar and lounge.

Details: Priced at around AED 350 for three-courses, without beverages. For more information or to make a reservation, call 04-5905444, e-mail reservations@galvindubai.com, or visit Galvin. If you enjoyed this, you may like this review on BiCE Mare.