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Crisp sea bass with grapefruit hollandaise

Citrus cuts through the buttery richness of this classic sauce, and complements lots of different fish

Put the vinegar, peppercorns and coriander seeds (if using) into a small pan with 1 tbsp water. Simmer until reduced to 1 tsp, then remove from the heat. If it reduces too much, add a splash of water.
Segment the grapefruit and put the segments onto kitchen paper. Squeeze the juice from the middle of the fruit.
Melt the butter in a small pan and keep it warm. Put the egg yolks into a blender or food processor with a generous pinch of salt. Strain the reduced vinegar on top, then discard the pepper and coriander seeds. Add 1 tsp grapefruit juice, then whizz for a few seconds.
With the motor on the blender running, pour in about 1 tbsp butter and the cream. Gradually add the rest of the butter, allowing it to fully emulsify after each addition to make a thick, smooth sauce. Keep the butter warm on the hob in-between pours. Add 1 tsp more grapefruit juice to loosen, then season. Stir in the segmented grapefruit and break it up a little. Keep the sauce warm while you cook the fish.
Slash, then season the sea bass. Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Heat the oil, then fry a fillet or two, skin-side down, for 4-5 mins, or until the flesh has changed colour almost all the way through and the skin is crisp. Flip the fish over, cook for 30 secs, then remove to a plate and keep warm while you fry the remaining fillets. Serve with the hollandaise and steamed greens.