Review: The White Room

Timeless elegance meets an innovative menu at this historic dining room established in 1885

Nestled discreetly within the historic Anantara Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky on Amsterdam’s bustling Dam Square lies a culinary treasure: The White Room. As one of the city’s oldest restaurants still preserved in its original splendour, it beckons diners into a bygone era of refinement.

Upon entering, diners are enveloped in a glorious atmosphere where hues of white and gold dominate, complemented by the soft glow filtering through stained glass windows. The 19th-century dining room exudes opulence with its ornate ceilings adorned with striking chandeliers, intricate columns, and walls adorned with hand-painted panels that glisten in the reflection of strategically placed mirrors.

The White Room offers more than just a meal; it is an experience of aristocratic grandeur. Tables with pristine white linen are decked with delicate floral arrangements, infusing a subtle pop of colour to each setting. Here, amidst an ambience steeped in history, diners are treated to a regal dining experience that stands unrivalled in the city.

Culinary highlights

Under the masterful guidance of acclaimed chef Jacob Jan Boerma, with chef de cuisine Tristan de Boer and Head Sommelier Frederico Vaultier Parain de Figueiredo, The White Room’s menu is a tribute to the freshness of the Netherlands’ seasonal bounty. The chef’s tasting menu, an artful blend of Asian flavours and influences from Suriname and the Netherlands Antilles, is meticulously paired with an exceptional selection of beverages, including fine grape varieties.

The Gold set menu comprises twelve plates, a masterpiece of six bites and six substantial plates, each designed to provoke and delight. Our tasting commences with the Macaron, a one-bite marvel speckled with dried blueberries, crowned by a lavish composition of fatty tuna and delicately layered with a shiso jelly sheet. Bubbly was served to accompany the first few plates, which enhanced the flavours of the White asparagus and tarragon served with a quenelle of salted macadamia ice cream starring a generous bump of Anna Dutch caviar. Beautifully executed, the creaminess of the nutty ice cream offsets the plump caviar, while the herbal nuances of tarragon linger on the palate.

Observing neighbouring tables with bread in sight, we anticipate its arrival, only to be surprised by the house-made sourdough—crafted from spelt and wheat, boasting a crisp crust yielding a warm, soft bite. Served with caramelised brown butter and Itrana olive oil, this dish is worthy of a course on the menu. A vibrant presentation of Kingfish follows, presented tiradito-style atop a bed of gochujang sauce, accented with green strawberry and pearls of mango and bergamot—a composition both visually striking and harmoniously balanced.

Huge crustacean fans, we eagerly tucked into the sensational North Sea Crab complemented by the red curry infusion with Granny Smith juices, goose liver and buttermilk foam peeking through. Up next, Langoustine arrived, topped with delicate pumpkin rounds, surrounded by blobs of lovage. Immersed in a verdant green emulsion, this dish fuses aromas, textures and nature. The Seabass Ikan Bali was one of our favourites, starring tender Dutch milk cow within a delicate seabass wrap, accompanied by jasmine rice, pickled ginger, and a delectable sauce —all served with bao buns to soak up the moreish brown sauce. Transitioning to the next meat course, Dutch lamb prepared medium rare, paired with morel, magnolia, cordyceps and anchovies, captivates with its robust flavours.

The Champagne with refreshing kaffir, almond and zesty yuzu kosho, serves as a chilled treat that effortlessly cleanses the palate, preparing us for the forthcoming desserts. The Tarragon stunned, from the two desserts served, featuring smoked mascarpone, cajeta, buttermilk and a marshmallow tuille, awaiting a ceremonious smashing, guided by the chef’s precise instructions – a playful finale to the meal.

Petit fours conclude this marvellous dining experience, where a nostalgic surprise leaves us departing from The White Room with smiles that stretch from ear to ear – a testament to the warmth and ingenuity woven into every aspect of our dining affair.

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The White Room, Dam 9,1012 JS Amsterdam. Visit the website or contact 0031-20-554 9454.